Dominique Laurent Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes 2006
95 WA-Laurent's 2006 Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes represents as usual three barrels from the same grower with whom he has worked for years, from vines next to de Vogue's and exceedingly tiny-berried that he claims are 90 years old. Black raspberry preserves and distillate, cumin, cardamom, roasted game, iris, violet, and decadent forest detritus kaleidoscopically fill the nose and spark the imagination. In the mouth, this displays a tenderness not only of texture but of touch that is at odds with the usually headstrong, penetrating, even savage behavior of wine from Bonnes Mares. This example is, in Laurent's words, "more Chambolle." The intertwining of floral, darkly-fruited and -earthy, spicy elements on a soothing yet stimulating finish is irresistible.